Have you ever open your refrigerator door and wish it opened the other way? Well, you’re in luck! Reversing your fridge door is actually pretty easy and doesn’t take long to do. I think the whole process for me took less than thirty minutes. Let’s jump right in and get started so you can reverse your fridge door.
As far as tools go, all I needed was a Philips screwdriver and a 5/16 in. wrench or socket set. In actuality, if you have a Klein 11-in-1 Multi-Tool, that would be all you need. I mention this tool in my other post Best tools every toolkit should have. Check it out if you haven’t done so yet.
I’m currently remodelling my house and am purchasing new appliances for my kitchen. Also explains the lack of a proper sink. I built that pink cabinet as a temporary setup.
But getting back to the fridge…
The hinge on this model is on the right side and opens to where if I’m standing next to my sink, I’d have to walk around the door to gain access to the inside. Since this fridge is new, the handles weren’t installed yet which puts me one step ahead.
First, remove your handles and brand stickers/hole plugs.
The nameplate will conceal one hole on the upper door. The lower door will have a simple little plug. Gently pry the sticker working your way around as to not damage the badge or the fridge finish.
In the image above you can see the tiny hole that was concealed by the nameplate. That is where the fridge door handle will screw into once we relocate the hinges.
Speaking of hinges, that’s the next step. First, remove the top hinge. There are only two bolts holding this door on.
The door doesn’t have a removable bolt. It simply lifts up and out of the door.
Once the bracket is removed, open the door to break the magnetic seal and lift.
The middle bracket is now accessible and the next item to be removed. There are three Phillips screws holding the bracket on and one bolt going through the bracket holding the bottom door to the bracket.
At first glance, the bottom screw looks inaccessible and if you attempt to remove it, you won’t be able to.
To get to the bottom screw, the bottom door must be removed first and to remove the bottom door, the bolt in the image above has to be removed first. The top of the bolt is actually the same size bolt as the bolts on the top bracket. Use the same tool to remove it.
There will be some grease on the bolt. Try not to remove all of the grease if you don’t have any to replace what you remove. If you do remove all the grease by accident, you can use this Lucas – White Lithium Grease. Lithium grease works great on doors. If you have a sticking garage door, this grease can be used to help lubricate the hinges.
Once that bolt is removed, open the door slightly to break the magnetic seal, lean the door out to avoid the mid-bracket and lift. You should be left with a doorless fridge.
With the door removed, access to all the Philips screws is easy.
Since you’re holding on the bracket, might as well move it to the other side. The bracket is a mirror image when flipped upside down. There should already be pre-drilled holes so moving the bracket should be pretty straightforward.
The bottom bracket is probably going to be the hardest part of this whole project. Partly because it’s so close to the ground and partly because you’ll need to relocate the bolt.
Like the other two brackets, it’s held on by just a couple of bolts.
If you attempt to just move the bracket over, you’ll run into alignment issues. The door just won’t match or be slightly crooked.
There is a second hole in the top of the bracket. The bolt in the bottom bracket will have to be removed and relocated to the opposite side.
If you can’t remove the bolt with the bracket off, simply reinstall on the opposite side and then relocate the bolt. It can be difficult to hold the bracket and remove the bolt if you attempt to remove it while on the ground.
I managed to relocate the bolt while the bracket was removed but again, this can be done once reinstalled on the fridge body to simplify the process.
As a reminder, always start bolts by hand and then use your tool to tighten once you’ve confirmed the bolts are threading in easily. Also when tightening, do one bolt at a time and just snug it up. Tighten till you feel a bit of resistance and then move to the next bolt. Once all the bolts are in and a tool is needed to tighten more, you can tighten the bolts all the way down.
Take the bottom door and relocate the hole plugs on the top and bottom of the doors. Gently pry the small plugs out. These have little flares that grip once pushed back in.
On the bottom of the top door, there is a little bracket. It helps support the weight of the door and keeps the bolt lined up. Don’t forget to relocate this before replacing doors.
Once the plugs and brackets are all relocated, the bottom door can be replaced. The same way it was removed is how it is replaced. Hold at a slight angle and guide it in on the bottom bolt first. Slowly straighten out the door and close. The magnets can hold most of the weight of the door once closed fully. Then reinstall the mid-bracket bolt.
Tighten the bolt and then reinstall the top door.
Just like the other two brackets, the top bracket should have predrilled holes. Slide the bolt into the top hole and then screw down.
Test the doors to make sure they swing freely and don’t bump into each other. If they operate smoothly, the hardest part is behind you.
Now its just a matter of replacing the door handles, plugs, and stickers.
The bottom door handle is attached to a small stem or knob near the middle of the door. On my model fridge, it is the exact same size as the other bolts so removal and replacement was easy.
These doors have a small Allen screw on the side that holds the handle to the stem or knob. If there were any plastics removed, don’t forget to replace those as well.
That is it! Finished! Now you know how to reverse your fridge door.